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2.19.25 
SENTOS!!!!!

OMG sorry for the one month absence. I honestly did not even realize time was passing so fast...I know you all are desperately waiting for my next blog post, so here it is! 

My unexpected obsession this time around in Kyoto are public baths known as sentos. I go at least a couple times a week, and have been trying to try out as many different ones as I can.  Sentos have played an extremely important role in Kyoto’s history as places to bathe, relax, and socialize with neighbors. Many of the sentos in the city have been around for decades; some almost a century. I think the older a sento is the more I love it. 

To start, my ultimate favorite sento is the one closest to my apartment, and also the first Kyoto sento I ever went to: HEIAN-YU!!!

     

Heian-yu is named after Heian-Jingu, a shrine nearby. At least I think it is, I’m only guessing :-P The photo is actually of the men’s side which I have never seen. The women’s side is the same but flipped.  I love the layout of the baths, all in one straight line. The crowd, like most sentos, is mostly older, but there is also a large family with a newborn baby I’ve been seeing frequently. The sauna has a tv that plays light-hearted Japanese news programs. The old man who works the entrance is quite possibly the least friendly person I have ever met in my entire life but he adds to the ambiance. 


I’ve already mentioned the Beatles sento earlier, so I’ll skip that one. I recently discovered there’s another sento near my house: GINZA-YU

 

This one has an amazing sauna. I’m not as big of a fan of the bath layout, though. The crowd here seems to be a bit younger than Heian-yu, but still plenty of obachans. I do like that the main bath is larger than Heian-yu and has a nice seating area. 

Lastly: KAMOGAWA-YU



 

This is a hipster sento. They play ambient/experimental music in the sauna and have an insane merch shop in the front with customized lighters and artist designed t-shirts. This is part of Yutonami‘s collection of sentos, a company that focuses on saving and revitalizing sentos in Japan that are under threat of closure. It has beautiful tiles and a much younger crowd. I think it is a great introduction sento. However, even if kamogawa-yu is a cooler and trendier sento, in the end, my heart will always belong to Heian-yu <3 


1.14.25
My Trip to Taipei 

I recently went on an epic trip to Taiwan to visit Lucia. I ate every single possible form of pork bun and went to the MINIATURES MUSEUM OF TAIWAN and also got to see the giant glowing emoji orbs from Lucia’s instagram in real life so I’d say it was a perfect week <3





This was my favorite thing I ate it was a scallion pancake egg ham basil cheese roll made by a fierce team of old ladies at a small stand by Lucia’s house. I went there three times because it was so good.




I also had so much boba which was nice because the boba trend is OVER in Japan and every single boba shop has closed since the last time I was here pretty much. This boba was apparently the FIRST BOBA EVER like this shop invented boba. It was pretty good except they used mini bobas which I honestly don’t love.





Taiwan seems to have an obsession with London so there were a lot scone themed cafes. I’ve never been a scone fan (too dry) but this one was really good. I don’t think scones would ever catch on in Japan though because the most important thing about pastries in Japan are the aesthetics of them and I think scones are a little too simple looking.





This was in the miniature mueum. Perfect room. I loved the carousel horses and there were even miniature crafts on the table (I think paper doll cutouts?). It was funny because all the miniatures were made by these random Americans and all fit into this very specific kind of elegant extravagant european aesthetic (A Little Princess/My Secret Garden/Frances Hodgson Burnett books come to mind for some reason to me). 




Finally here is me with one of the emoji orbs. I can’t even explain how amazing these are. They are all hand drawn (except for one) and are in the middle of this strange park like strip in the trendy and cool Taipei neighborhood. I also love the facial expressions they chose. I’m not even sure how to describe this one like embarassed or a little sneaky I guess?

I <3 Taipei 


 
12.24.24
Hi everyone + merry christmas :-)

If you know me you know how much I love kissatens. Kissatens are old showa-era Japanese coffee shops. I go to a kissaten almost every day and have made it my mission to explore as many of them as possible. Here are some of my favorites:

珈琲 ゴゴ



This is the most classic a kissaten can be IMO. It’s the one I go back to most frequently. I think a kissaten should only count as a kissaten if it looks like it hasn’t been touched in 50 years and GoGo is the epitome of that--the red leather booths, metal chandeliers, analog clocks scattered throughout. 

Many kissatens still let people smoke inside and this is one of those spots. I think the lingering smell of cigarettes is so important to the ambiance. There’s a couple regulars I see everytime I go--two or three middle-aged ladies with awesome hairstyles. They sit on the red stools and talk to the owner for hours. The owner is the sweetest woman ever and she always remembers me and points out when my hair is a different color. 

アルペン珈琲店


This is a 1960s/70s themed kissaten that only plays bossa nova music. It’s run by an old couple who make a mean drip coffee. Amazing leather chairs.


喫茶チロル

             

Cafe Tyrol. This might just be my favorite kissaten ever. All the tables and chairs are this dark oak wood and are low to the ground almost like school desks. Cafe Tyrol also has some of the most amazing food I’ve ever had in Japan and SO cheap. They make homemade curry and hiyashi rice and the most perfect egg sandwiches on fluffy bread. I wish I could stay here forever. I went last week during the first real (and maybe only) snow of the year and had curry with a fried egg and a hot coffee and they sat me at a special table just for one and it made me remember how wonderful it can be to be alone. 


There are too many kissatens so maybe I will make this a series. Part two coming soon.





12.19.24

This is my new cookbook from 1984 that is Amish themed. I like how cookie is spelled “cookey.”







12.18.24

Hi guys. This is my blog. Shoutout to Quinn for finally making me realize it was time to get serious...


Life is good. I live in SAKYO WARD KYOTO. Here is a description of SAKYO WARD on a blog about Japan that Mari found. 



Honestly idk if this is the most accurate description. But you get the vibe.

Every day I go to an Italian themed coffee shop near my house run by one man who is alwaying wearing the same outfit of a beanie and pair of selvedge denim jeans. I sit at a table next to this tiny plastic sow and her piglets.



I think I may be this cafe’s most regular customer. I’m honestly getting a bit embarassed by how often I’ve been going but Kyoto has gotten so cold and this is the only cafe that serves espresso (because of the Italian theme). The other clientale fit a very specific vibe...they are in their thirties/fourties and wear trench coats and glasses. 

I’ve noticed most local places in Kyoto seem to have some sort of theme. And when people choose a theme in Japan they commit to it.

There’s a Beatles themed sento by Hyakumanben. 



It’s also right next to a Beatles themed bar. I tried to go once but the menu has probably a hundred options and they all have random names like “JOHN” and no description of what the actual drink is. It was a bit overwhelming. If they ever have a live cover band again though I’ll go back.



Here’s a yellow themed kissaten: 




This bar/coffee shop is fashion themed? Or like Paris themed? Parisian fashion themed? They also have a giant poster that says Lola <3 



I like that so many places have themes. It’s kind of moving, to see so many places dedicated to a single obsession. I get it. I’ve always been someone who hyperfixates, who throws themself into intense obsessions. But honestly, I move on quickly. These places, many of them have been around for decades. They’ve picked their thing and they’ve stuck with it. And it never gets old.